While seemingly innocuous, the soil type could have a dramatic impact on your project. Michael Holmes analyses the various ground conditions and foundation solutions, revealing their cost

Soil Types

A good starting point is to call your local authority Building Control department. They should be willing, informally, to give you an idea of the typical soil type in the area you are building, and the sort of foundation that is appropriate.

Usefully, most local authorities produce a fact sheet on typical foundation solutions for different soil types commonly found in the area.

Rocks such as limestone, granite, sandstone, shale and hard solid chalk have a high bearing capacity. The rock may simply need to be stripped back and levelled off to build from.

Rock can be impervious, so topsoil is likely to require drainage as it is not possible to build soak ways to dispose of rainwater or surface water. Off-mains drainage options will also be very limited.

• Chalk – Strip foundations are commonly used in chalk. Providing the chalk is not too soft, widths of 450mm for low-rise buildings are generally acceptable. The depth of the foundation must be below any frost action (700mm). If the chalk is soft it will need to be excavated until firm chalk is reached.
• Gravel and sand – Dry compact gravel, or gravel and sand subsoil’s are usually adequate for strip foundations. Generally a depth of 700mm is acceptable, as long as the ground has adequate bearing capacity. If the water table is high (i.e. the gravel is submerged), the bearing capacity is halved, so it’s important to keep the foundations as high as possible. A shallow, reinforced, wide strip foundation may be suitable. Sand holds together reasonably well when damp, compacted and uniform, but trenches may collapse and so sheet piling is often used to retain the ground in trenches until the concrete is poured.
• Clay – The first 900-1,200mm layer of clay is subject to movement due to expansion and shrinkage depending on moisture content, so it is generally necessary to excavate foundations to a depth where the moisture content of the clay remains stable. British Standard 8004 recommends a minimum depth of 1m for foundations But if there are, or were, trees nearby, depths of up to 3m may be necessary. In clay, prior to concreting the foundations, the trench is often protected from heave by lining it with a compressible layer (e.g. Clayboard).
• Firm clay over soft clay – A traditional strip foundation is sometimes acceptable but it is important not to overdig as this may increase the stress on the softer clay beneath. A common solution is to dig wide strip foundations with steel reinforcement — however an engineered foundation may be necessary.
• Peat – Peat and loose waterlogged sand are very poor subsoils. If the peat can be stripped back to find suitable load-bearing ground of at least 1.5m depth, strip foundations may be suitable. A reinforced raft foundation will likely be required.
• Filled ground – Where ground has previously been excavated and filled, it is generally necessary to dig down to a level beneath the area of the fill.
• Sloping sites – Sloping sites require stepped foundations. Guidelines are given in the Building Regulations.

Foundation Types

A quick guide to the most common types of foundation

• Strip Foundation – A continuous strip of concrete supporting load-bearing walls. For a single storey building strip foundations will typically be 450mm wide and at least 200mm deep, and for two storeys 600mm wide and 200mm deep.
• Deep Strip Foundations – Deep strip foundations: Where strip foundations need to be at a lower level to reach soil with suitable bearing capacity, a wider, deeper trench can be dug to work in, and the strip foundations dug and poured at a lower level. Walls are then built up to ground level in masonry.
• Wide Strip Foundations – Wide strip foundations: Where the soil is soft or of a low load-bearing capacity, wide strip foundations can be used to spread the load over a larger area, reinforced with steel so that the loading per m² is reduced.
• Trenchfill Foundation – Due to the high cost of labour, deep strip foundations have largely been replaced by trench fill. Trenches are dug to a depth where the subsoil provides sufficient load-bearing capacity, and the whole trench is filled with concrete. Steel reinforcement may be added in areas close to trees. Compared to deep strip foundations, trench fill minimises the width of the dig and the labour and materials required for building masonry below ground level, offsetting the cost of the additional concrete.
• Raft Foundation – A reinforced concrete raft or mat is used on very weak or expansive soils such as clays or peat. They allow the building to ‘float’ on or in the soil. A raft is used where the soil requires such a large bearing area that wide strip foundations are spread too far, making it more economical to pour one large reinforced concrete slab. A raft is an alternative to piles as it can be less expensive.
• Piled Foundation – Short bore pile and beam: Where the ground conditions will not support strip foundations and the depth of trench fill foundations become uneconomic, or ground conditions make them unsuitable, a series of columns (piles) can be bored and cast in-situ, or precast piles driven into place until they reach stronger strata. Short bore piles are typically 2–3m long and can be reinforced with steel. Each pile is then connected at the top by a precast horizontal beam of reinforced concrete. A suspended reinforced concrete ground floor can then be built using precast components, or cast in situ.
• Friction Piles – A similar concept to short bore pile and beam used in situations where there is no suitable bearing stratum at an acceptable depth. Friction piles rely on skin resistance against the soil.
• Pad Foundations – Used when isolated loads need to be supported, for instance to support the columns of a steel or post and beam frame house. The load is concentrated on a small area.

COMPARISONS BETWEEN MODERN HOMES AND TRADITIONAL HOMES

Many believe a traditional/heritage home must be old in age or existence while the modern home is the latest luxurious kind. Traditional and modern homes don’t necessarily mean old or new respectively. These sail as far as the building designs, materials used, origin, architecture, historic components. Most heritage homes are traditional homes by virtue of their dominating similarities. The specifics in comparing these two sets of homes, if known to one, best guides their choices in which home to look out for.

Architecture

Ancient architecture is defined by the elegant and rich designs while modern architecture seeks maximizing every utility while minimizing costs. Most traditional homes are characterized by voluminous designs and rare materials, integrating many single units to form a huge structure. These were built by the local artisans carefully paying attention to every detail as built. In summary, one can say these buildings were over designed and this explains why they have stood the test of time. Maintenance therefore comes costly for most traditional homes.

Modern homes or structures are usually designed to last a specific period of time beyond which they’ll require demolition or upgrading. Modern home constructions are implemented while incorporating building principles, scheduling and management

Lighting and openings

Traditional homes, due to the various internal partitions called for many window and door openings to light up the different rooms. Traditional homes usually have smaller, symmetrical windows of the same sizes and shapes accommodating the different room partitions. Less heating appliances were used which limited the demand for abundant aeration through larger doors and window openings.

Due to the various flexible door and window designs and sizes, modern homes have taken full advantage of this revolutions due to increasing bills associated with lighting a building. Door and windows not only serve as openings and access, but are today a source of abundant natural light into a home at little or no cost.

Space partitions

Most traditional homes though spacious in the internals, were/are divided into smaller rooms because these were designed for households which were in larger numbers than they are today. Larger spaces were mainly designed for general rooms like dinning and sitting rooms.

Today, the more space there is in a structure, the more comfort associated to it. The way of life today is dominated by a demand for people to work within their homes with less destructions thus aiding the need for comfortable space with less occupants. Therefore, modern homes make the most of space, with multi-purpose rooms having less walls to serve the needs of its occupants yet with minimal inconveniences within the building.

Materials

Far from just rich architectural designs, materials used in traditional buildings were abundant but with little or no alternative options. Today, these are now expensive and rare to find for example gold, terra Cota bricks but have been replaced with various options like concrete bricks. Due to their abundance in quantity at the time, these materials were used unsparingly to bring the best out of a structure’s appearance. The old designs were disadvantaged by limited material options and designs unlike modern buildings. A variety of building materials, finishes, furniture have been introduced overtime to match the rapid development of architecture.

One of the major reasons for high maintenance and renovation costs in traditional homes is due to the scarcity of the original materials used as it requires that the originality of a structure be maintained especially with listed heritage buildings. Modern homes, alternatively are built with less material but with achieved maximum elegance and beauty due to economic reasons. Construction is usually done today to maximize the utilities but with minimal expenses.

Want to assess, renovate or buy a heritage home, but you don’t seem to know where to start? Or perhaps you want a modern dream home? For all your building concerns, Contact London Building Contractors

A Complete-Turnkey-Solution-For-You.

When it comes to remodeling your home, office space or interior, especially within the West London / North West area, you can count on us. Upgrading your bathroom will greatly boost the total value of your home or office space.

For a great chance of making sure that your remodels are completed on time and within a given budget, London Building Contractors has generated a list of things to consider. There are some things to know about the process of renovating your bathroom

• Consider the cost of materials: One important factor to consider when upgrading your bathroom is the cost of materials. It’s important to consider how much you’re willing to spend, the expected return of investment you want, the quality of materials you will use, the size of your bathroom and if you’re planning of handing it over to a reliable contractor.
• Add eye catchy details: When remodeling your bathrooms, one should consider to indulge in using beautiful materials to your space. When choosing materials for a space, be sure that each compliments one another. Adding beautiful details that are eye catchy and fun details will reflect a cool and warm personality.
• Include products that are energy efficient: when considering upgrading your bathroom, one should consider products that add value and energy efficiency to your space. For example, upgrading the LED lighting will not just increase your energy efficiency, you can also expect durability and low heat generation. LED Lighting as an excellent color consistency and high color rendering, which give the bathrooms colorful details real impact. We at London Building Contractors will ensure our clients get the best interior décor to their bathroom.
• Consider the perfect toilet: When considering remodeling your bathroom, picking the perfect toilet for your interior is likely not the first thing on your mind but choosing an appreciate toilet is just very important in your remodeling project. This will help avoid regrets and extra expenses down the line. The common choice is a two-piece toilet which has a separate tank and seat, although the tank and seat are made to fit together. Having the perfect toilet will add more beauty to the bathroom interior

In conclusion, upgrading your home for the long term doesn’t always mean breaking the bank or you have to be dramatic about the new changes. We at London Building Contractors will ensure that all the required updates are done to the interior of your bathroom within an estimated budget.

What makes a building a heritage home?

Although many old buildings are appealing to buyers when looking for a historic look and feel, these are however determined by the Municipal Council. A heritage property has historic and aesthetic that when assessed are deemed worthy of preserving for generations to come Roughly, a building that has lasted more than 50years qualifies to be a heritage property but must be further backed up by its significance and value to a state’s history. Also, states and municipalities also influence the designation of a home or a property as historic.

Amidst the beauty, pride and value associated with heritage homes , it’s everyone’s fear investing in one due to the uncertain expenses tagged to them. You need to know what weights to place on your scale or which pawn to move to reap the best out of a heritage property. With no effort in mind, every heritage property buyer first thinks of these:

• I’ll be limited to what you I change to the property!
• I won’t be the only one involved in the renovation process. The authorities might make this harder!
• How costly will it be keeping the home up to date?
• Better yet, I’ll own a little piece of history. But this doesn’t feel enough to take the risk!

CONSIDERATIONS WHEN BUYING A HERITAGE HOME

• Insurance costs.
  Insurance is an important factor to consider with heritage properties. Costs tagged to it vary from property to property but are usually much higher with heritage properties than with ordinary homes. This is due to various factors associated to heritage properties like the need for specialists incase of material purchases for any renovations, consistent maintenance of the property.

• Maintenance costs
  Maintenance of heritage properties can mean to be costly depending on the materials used in it and time of existence. The older a heritage building, the higher its maintenance costs. It is a key maintenance factor that mainly repairs be done not replacements when it comes to renovations and restorations of heritage buildings. Accessing some of these materials increases costs due to their scarcity in the market and need for experts/specialists during the building’s old system repairs. Therefore, you need to consider advice from heritage property specialists before purchasing one. Also, in many cases, any property changes and renovations to a heritage property must be approved by a committee.

• Location
  The location of a building in question plays a bog role to whether one should or should not buy a specific heritage property. Homes in conservation areas require planning permission for works where permission would not normally be needed, such as for demolition. A conservation area is one of special architectural or historic interest, the character of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance. You will also need to give notice to the local authority before carrying out any works to trees on your property.

• Confirm Approval of previous works
  For any works to be done on a heritage property, consent must be granted by the necessary authorities. If unauthorized works had previously been undertaken on the property, there is a risk that you, being a buyer might be required to restore the property to its original condition.

  One can however apply for consent retrospectively, but its not a guaranteed option in approval. In these circumstances, your solicitor may suggest asking the seller to apply for permission or suggest that you seek a price reduction.

  Want to assess, renovate or buy a heritage home, but you don’t seem to know where to start? Careful who you turn to! London Building Contractors is all you need!

  For all your building concerns, Contact London Building Contractors

  A Complete-Turnkey-Solution-For-You

Secrets For Successful Open-Plan Living

Airy, spacious and versatile, open-plan living is a popular design choice for the modern home, but a successful scheme requires careful planning. We’ve rounded up the best-kept design secrets to help you transform a large empty room into a warm and welcoming sociable hub for the whole family. You might want to take notes…

Celebrate structural features

If your open-plan space has characterful features like exposed beams or support columns, don’t try to disguise them. Instead, let these architectural quirks enhance your scheme for a completely unique interior. In this barn conversion, characterful woodwork and an original brick hearth frame a charming country-style living space.

Conceal your kitchen

For a sleek open-plan space, make the kitchen area as unobtrusive as possible with clever design and coherent finishes. Here, the kitchen units run along the back wall and are raised off the floor. The unit fronts are simple, contemporary and handleless, plus they fit in with the scheme’s brown tonal palette. When not in use, this kitchen has the air of a smart sideboard at the edge of the dining space.

Add a double-sided fireplace

Try to give each distinct area of your room its own focal point. In the kitchen, it could be the island unit or the range cooker. In the dining space it might be a dramatic pendant light. In the living area, a fireplace is ideal. Here, a fireplace has been built into a small partition wall between the dining and living space. And, if you thought you needed a chimney for a fireplace, think again: the latest bio-ethanol fires don’t require a flue and can be placed anywhere.

Wave goodbye to walls

Low ceilings and exposed brick walls would have once made this cottage feel cramped and confined, but now they’re characterful features in an airy open-plan space. Knocking out walls in older buildings can give once-poky rooms a new lease of life. An architect will have more ideas about possible layouts, so get expert advice before you start.

Streamline appliances

When your kitchen is part of a larger living space, it’s regularly on show to visitors. It’s not ideal if guests can see your socks spinning around in your washing machine, and you don’t want your white goods to make such a din that you can’t hear the TV, either. Go for integrated machines that can be hidden behind cupboard doors and buy the quietest possible models. Integrated fridges, freezers and dishwashers will also make your kitchen look sleeker.

Streamline appliances

When your kitchen is part of a larger living space, it’s regularly on show to visitors. It’s not ideal if guests can see your socks spinning around in your washing machine, and you don’t want your white goods to make such a din that you can’t hear the TV, either. Go for integrated machines that can be hidden behind cupboard doors and buy the quietest possible models. Integrated fridges, freezers and dishwashers will also make your kitchen look sleeker.

Step it up

Creating a split-level floor in your open-plan space will help to discreetly zone off different areas. Here, a small step takes you up to the light-filled living area. Meanwhile, a step down could be used as a transition into a cosy snug or a more formal dining space.

Plan snug zones

Without careful styling, an open-plan room can feel cold and impersonal. To avoid this, subtly zone each portion of the room to create intimate spaces within the larger area. A breakfast bar, for example, can separate the kitchen, pendant lighting over the table will define the dining area, while seating, as shown here, is gently anchored by a soft rug.

Plump for a partition

In a studio flat or small open-plan space, a half-wall can work well to screen off the kitchen from the rest of the room without blocking out any light. A neat little breakfast bar has been made from one side of this wall, while the other side supports the TV, which faces out into a cosy living area.

Problems Affecting Heritage Properties

1. Damp

Rising damp can be difficult to treat in a listed property. In the 1900’s, building in the UK involved bricks and water with single leaf solid walls. Bricks are absorbent materials that slowly absorb humidity and water whenever exposed to them. The single leaf solid walls comprised of one layer of bricks that separated the indoors from the outdoors but were greatly these were affected by capillarity.
Despite any strong materials used in a structure, dampness when identified in buildings requires urgent attention. If ignored, the structural integrity and strength of the building gets compromised overtime. You’ll need to get proper advice from a specialist experienced in older properties. Damp in listed properties is normally identified by the following:

• Decay in timbers in contact with wet masonry
• Deterioration of the external fabric of the wall due to freezing and thawing
• Accumulation and movement of salts and other chemicals within the walls thus causing wall stains
• Growth of molds on the inside surfaces of walls
• Corrosion of metals with the wall

2. Ground settlement/ subsidence

Subsidence is when the ground beneath a property sinks, pulling the property’s foundations down with it. This causes the walls and floors to shift, leading to cracks and potentially destabilizing the construction of the property. This can be caused by:

• Leaking old drains beneath the property which weakens the soil strength
• Poor soil properties within its foundation e.g clay
• Growth of tree roots beneath the property foundation
• Ground vibrations/ earth quakes

3. Poor Insulation

Most homes built before the 1920s, are most likely to have solid walls as external walls rather than cavity walls. Solid walls have no gap, so they can’t be filled with cavity wall insulation but can be insulated from the inside or the outside but will usually cost more than insulating a cavity wall.
Due to climate changes, insulating old heritage homes is advisable. However, if not well planned, adding wall insulation to a heritage building may prevent the house from breathing leading to damp.

4. Energy Efficiency

There are restrictions to buying or renovating a heritage property which limits its energy efficiency. This is due to the close monitoring by the municipal councils who aim at having the property upgrade compatible and complementary to the original design or existing system.

Any new design additives/amenities should not alter the story behind the heritage property and must be fully compatible to the existing system. With regards to energy installations or upgrades, this doesn’t give room for applying the modern energy options during renovations thus limiting energy efficiency within the property. Also, by the laws set, refurbishing these old historic buildings majorly deals with repairing

A quote is a promise from a contractor to do the work at a fixed price. Don’t rely on a verbal quote – get it in writing, as this will be useful before, during and after completion.

Some contractors charge for quotes – ask about this first, in any case quote should be free without hidden cost to you.

Try to get written quotes from at least 3 different contractors before you decide on one. Comparing quotes will help you decide if you’re getting a fair price. Some contractors quote could high/low for various reasons but don’t be shy to ask any question so you don’t end up with the wrong one.

After you say yes to a quote, it’s a binding agreement between you and the contractor, whether it’s written down or not. But having it in writing means you can check what you agreed and prove it if there’s a dispute later.

“Make sure you get a quote, not an estimate. A quote is a fixed price and it should also outline exactly what you’re getting so you’ll have an idea how much it cost. An estimate is just a rough guess, so you could end up paying more or less and compromise on quality”.

The contractor can’t charge you more than the price on their quote unless:

• you ask for extra work that’s not included in the quote
• they let you know they have to do extra work and you agree to pay more for it
• they made a genuine mistake when writing down or calculating the price – they have the legal right to charge you what it should have been

“Be wary if a contractor won’t put a quote in writing. It’s a sign they could be unreliable.

Also be cautious if their price is a lot lower than other quotes you get. It could mean they don’t have the right skills or experience, or they’re not being honest. It could also mean they’re not quoting for exactly the same work (this is where you ask questions)”.

What a standard quote should include

Be very clear about the work you want done – this will help you get the most accurate price and prevent misunderstandings later.

A quote should include:

• a fixed total price – not a daily rate
• a breakdown of all the work to be done and the materials needed
• separate costs for each material and part of the work
• how long the price is valid for
• if the price includes VAT
• when the price can go up, eg only if you agree to extra work

If you get a daily rate instead of a fixed total price there’s a risk the contractor could string out the work to get more money. Avoid this by getting them to put in writing:

• how many days the work will take
• how many hours of work counts as a day
• when they need your go-ahead to work more days

Before saying yes to a quote, you should check the contractor has the correct insurance in place and try to get a written contract.

Masonry walls are built of a series of individual units – generally brick, stone or flint – with mortar acting as the glue that holds them together. The external face of the finished wall therefore consists of masonry units separated by mortar joints. These joints are known as pointing.

Mortar basically comprises an aggregate (sand) held in a matrix by a binder. In old walls the latter ingredient was usually lime, but might be earth or a combination of the two. Stone walls were often built with earth-lime mortar, for example, but pointed using lime.

What is pointing?

The most obvious purpose of pointing is to fill the gaps between the masonry units. This stops them from becoming loose and prevents water, draughts and foreign material such as dirt and vegetation from penetrating the wall.

Even more crucial is pointing’s role in managing moisture in the wall fabric. Old bricks are soft and permeable, while stone varies greatly from soft sandstones to very hard flint – but is generally relatively soft and permeable.

These materials absorb water readily; becoming wet when it rains and then drying through evaporation. The lime mortar pointing is also soft and permeable, which helps to ensure that this cycle of absorption and evaporation can continue to take place over the whole wall surface.

Over a long period of time, this #repeating cycle causes erosion of the surface of the material. If there is a frost while the wall fabric is still wet, the water in the wall freezes and expands, causing damage to the surface.

To mitigate this, the #pointing mortar is intentionally made softer and more permeable than the masonry units. This ensures moisture is concentrated in the mortar joints as opposed to the wall fabric. Most of the evaporative drying therefore happens in the pointing rather than the #bricks or #stones.

When there is a frost, the majority of the water will be in the mortar joints. This means most of the erosion and freeze/thaw damage is limited to the pointing.

This sacrificial function is fundamental to ensuring the long-term performance of a wall. The valuable and hard to replace brick or stone is protected at the expense of the mortar joints, which gradually erode over time.

Eventually the exposed mortar will have degraded to the point that it is no longer performing effectively and repointing is necessary. In normal conditions this can be expected to be a once in a generation task.

What can go wrong?

The most common problem you’re likely to encounter is that previous repointing has been carried out using inappropriate mortar.

Modern versions use Portland cement as a binder. This creates a hard, impermeable mortar that suits modern bricks that have been fired at very high temperatures. When used with the softer masonry units in old walls, however, it can have very serious consequences.

In period properties, cement mortar blocks the evaporation route through the mortar joint and concentrates water in the bricks or stones, causing these to erode instead of the pointing. When there’s a frost the wet masonry units are then subject to freeze/thaw action.

This causes spalling of the face of bricks, where the protective skin on the surface is blown off. In severe cases whole bricks or soft stones can completely disintegrate.

The hard, inflexible modern cement #pointing is incompatible with the soft, flexible mortar behind it and begins to crack and fail. This allows water into the wall fabric, where it becomes trapped, which can ultimately cause the core of the wall to degrade.

In addition, contrary to what you might expect, cement pointing in an old wall will fail much more quickly than softer lime versions.

When pointing does start to fail, whether through natural erosion of lime mortar or the failure of inappropriate cement mortar, the ability of the wall to manage moisture is compromised and it will tend to become damp.

Ultimately, the wall’s structural integrity will be compromised. Roots and germinating seeds of plants can start to grow in failed joints, causing serious problems as they expand.

When to repoint old walls

A wall with soft mortar pointing needs to be repaired once the mortar has eroded well behind the face of the masonry units. Erosion will occur unevenly over the surface of a wall; the time for repointing has come when the mortar has receded 5mm to 10mm back from the face.

If a wall has been repointed using cement the work will almost certainly need to be redone with lime mortar at some stage. Judging when to do this is not necessarily straightforward.

If the pointing is failing, the wall is becoming damp or masonry units are starting to degrade then repointing is urgently necessary. However some walls repointed in cement, particularly those in sheltered positions, can continue for a considerable time without showing any adverse effects.

Repointing tips

• Rake out old pointing to a depth of 10mm.
• Large joints in stonework will need to be raked deeper – take care not to destabilise the wall.
• Cement mortar can be hard to remove and risks causing damage – wait until the work is necessary.
• Only use hand tools, and proceed with great care. Never, ever use an angle grinder.
• Use appropriate lime mortar, which should be matched to the old pointing if possible.
• Hot mixed mortar is best, especially in damp walls, but be careful of health and safety.
• Press the mix well into the joints, knock back and then tend the mortar as it goes off.
• Finish with an open texture, set back from the face and not covering the masonry units.
• Protect drying mortar from frost, direct sun and wind.

Attempting to remove the cement pointing, especially if it is still sound, will inevitably cause some damage to the masonry units – so it is best to hold off if there are no problems. Because of the incompatibility of materials, the cement will begin to fail at some stage. This is the time to #repoint; when it is much easier to remove.

How to repoint

The good news is this is a relatively straightforward job that can be undertaken by any competent person with a bit of instruction and training.

The first stage is to rake out the old pointing to remove any failing mortar and provide sufficient depth (10mm) to key the new pointing. You’ll also need to get rid of any very loose and friable mortar, which might involve going deeper.

With a stone wall in poor condition that might be very much deeper. If you get to the stage where the stability of masonry units or integrity of the wall deteriorates, then it is time to call in an expert.
Once the joints have been raked out, they must then be dampened with a fine water spray. This step helps to prevent the new pointing from drying too quickly and failing.

The new mortar is then forced into the joints with a pointing iron or small trowel, ensuring that it is well packed and finished slightly proud. For very deep joints this will be a two stage process, allowing the first stage to go off before progressing to the second.

Once the mortar has started to harden (when it can just be marked with a thumbnail) it should be knocked back into the joints. Finally the pointing should be rubbed back to just behind the masonry units, making sure that it does not go over their edges.

The surface finish should be a rough, open texture to maximise the potential for evaporation. Struck pointing or ribbon pointing, seen much too often in the repair of old walls, is not appropriate either visually or functionally.

Some walls were originally pointed using specialist decorative techniques. These include tuck pointing – popular in Georgian brickwork – and galleting (the incorporation of stone chips in thick joints of stone or flint walls). These are specialist techniques that will require an experienced craftsman.

What pointing mortar should I use?

The best bet is to try to match the original pointing mortar as closely as possible. This is most likely to be compatible with the particular brick or stone used to build the wall originally. It will also maintain the appearance of the wall and help to ensure it fits in with the local vernacular tradition.

Lime mortars fall broadly into three categories, each of which has different properties and applications:

Hydraulic mortars

These include material that causes them to set quickly and develop higher strength than other lime mortars.

They vary greatly in strength, with those at the top of the scale becoming even harder than cement. They are rarely appropriate for repointing old masonry but the weakest hydraulic mortars can be used in exposed situations with very hard stone. Great care must be taken if you’re considering them.

Lime putty-based mortars

These are non-hydraulic. Formed by slaking quicklime, the putty is used as the binder and mixed with carefully-selected sharp sand. This is widely available in ready-mix form, and can be stored almost indefinitely before use, provided air is excluded.

It is straightforward to use and sets as a result of exposure to CO2 in the air. It provides a soft, flexible and highly breathable pointing that is compatible with most old masonry.

Hot mixed lime mortar

This is also non-hydraulic, but is made onsite by combining quicklime, sand and water. Quicklime is hazardous and requires careful handling – nobody should attempt hot mixing without proper training. It makes a very workable mortar that is extremely easy to use.

Hot mixed lime mortar pointing has exceptional moisture management properties, actively wicking water from the surrounding fabric. It is by far the best material to use in damp masonry, as it dries walls out quickly and effectively.

Bathroom renovation can be an exciting and rewarding experience for homeowners. Not only does it improve the aesthetics and functionality of your bathroom, but it can also increase the value of your property.

Before diving into the renovation process, it’s important to plan out your budget and prioritize your needs. Consider factors such as the size of your bathroom, the condition of the plumbing and electrical systems, and your personal style preferences.

When it comes to designing your new bathroom, choose a color scheme and theme that reflects your personal taste and complements the rest of your home. Consider incorporating features such as a double sink vanity, a large bathtub or shower and plenty of storage space.

During the renovation process, it’s important to work with experienced contractors who can handle plumbing electrical, and other necessary tasks. Be sure to communicate your vision and budget clearly, and ask for regular updates and progress reports.

Finally, don’t forget the small details that can make a big impact. Consider adding new lighting fixtures, mirrors and accessories to complete the look of your new bathroom.

Overall, a bathroom renovation can be a fun and exciting project that adds value to your home and improves your daily living experience. With careful planning, a clear budget, and the right team of professionals, you can create a beautiful and functional bathroom that meets all of your needs.